WE are constantly implored to support local independent businesses, but where does a chain-owned pub fit into the equation?

Vintage Inns has 195 pubs in the UK, including the Crown in Ardleigh.

The pub dates to at least 1648 when, after the siege of Colchester, Parliamentary soldiers looking for loyalist John Wenlock hauled him to the Crown Inn.

Although it is now a world away from its history you don’t get the feeling the pub is a clone.

It looks and feels like a traditional pub, with wooden beams and old pictures of Colchester on the walls, plenty of nooks and crannies and an apple tree in the good-sized beer garden.

The menu, which appears to be the same up and down the country, lacked a bit of invention though. The courgette, carrot and chickpea burger was probably the most unusual dish and there was no “specials board” on our visit.

The choice of starters was excellent though, and we shared the black pearl scallops and prawns dish.

The seafood had been cooked delicately and, served with garlic butter and rustic bread, it was an ideal dish to share.

Having pointed out the menu was a little basic, sometimes you can’t beat a classic and my wife Danielle had the 7oz British beefburger.

It was served in a brioche bun with smoked cheddar, ginger-beer glazed streaky bacon and chips.

The burger was perfectly cooked and packed with flavour, and the triple-cooked chips were spot on.

I had the slow cooked ham hock with orange and malt whisky marmalade. The balance of salty ham, sweet whisky and sharp orange was excellent.

It was served on spring onion mashed potato, honey roasted carrots and a white white cream sauce, which contributed to a really classy main course.

The children’s menu was a real plus with a good mix of healthy food and child-pleasers.

Main courses were £5 (and not a chicken nugget in site) and puddings were just £1.

Our three-year-old son Sam had steamed salmon, peas and potatoes, and a chocolate brownie for dessert.

The chance to combine two of my favourite desserts - carrot cake and cheesecake - in one dish sounded too good to turn down, but it was a disappointment.

Despite booking, the table was being laid as we were taken to it and service-wise, the waitress did not know if there were any specials and the main courses seemed to take an age to arrive, but it was a busy Sunday evening.

Whether the Crown is truly “independent” or not, the food was great and it is a clearly very popular.

DOMINIC BOWERS

Ardleigh Crown
Old Ipswich Rd
Ardleigh CO7 7QR
01206 231946

THE MENU

Prawns and scallops £7.75
Ham hock £10.95
Burger £9.95
Cheesecake £5.25
Kids’ menu
Steamed salmon, peas and potatoes £5
Chocolate brownie £1

THE VERDICT

Atmosphere 3/5
Food 4/5
Decor 4/5
Value 4/5
Service 3/5
YES